Tuesday, May 29, 2012

That's a Wrap Skirt!

Sorry for the brief absence! This weekend was a whirlwind of expected and unexpected adventures. I've got a lot to discuss now, and I bet you're just dying to hear it! First thing's first, though: all of the pajama pants are now DONE! Here is SM, modeling the scorpion pants we all know he needs now:

Now his legs are protected by a swarm of venomous arachnids!
My pants are also done, and I really like them, but I'm not great at taking photos of myself so you will have to wait a bit to see them! In lieu of a finished product, here is a random photo of my pincushion sitting on top of the fabric:
Artsy!

Now, once I was done with those pants, I scurried right along to my next sewing project, that flowery pink wrap skirt from the Sew Everything Workshop. Because I wanted to wear it to a party on Saturday night, this was my first sewing project ON A DEADLINE. I work well under pressure, and I can happily say that this was no exception. I tackled a few major new concepts with this project: darts, easestitching, and a sewn pull-through hole for the waistband ties. I also took a lot of pictures, because I *loved* how the fabric looked in the morning light from the window in my sewing room.

This is my first practice dart on a spare piece of fabric. Gorgeous, no?
I'll happily admit that I fell right in love with this fabric from the moment I saw it. A few weeks ago I got it into my head that I needed a flowy white skirt with a pink floral pattern on it, but I also didn't want it to be too busy. The color on this print was exactly what I wanted, and that unique white silhouette pattern seems like the ideal way to balance fancy with subtle. I adore patterns of all kinds, but they're hard to wear, and I'm always looking for ways to look interesting and unique without smacking people in the face with loudness. Anyway, I was happy to learn to sew darts on a fabric I loved, and here is the final, pressed result in the skirt:

Crisp!
After sewing the skirt's four darts and hemming the sides, it was time to add the waistband. I'll admit that I would've liked the ties to be a little longer, and they don't look perfect on the ends, but overall I think they turned out OK. The most interesting part was sewing a little hole for the ties to go through on the side. I had a little trouble translating the instructions to what was actually going on in the garment, because the hole was stitched at the seam of two pieces that would eventually be folded in half. Once I realized that the stitch that created the hole was the seam between the two pieces, I figured it out pretty quickly, and here is the result:






After this, I had to attach the waistband/ties to the body of the skirt, but the seams didn't quite match up the way they were supposed to:


 I have helpfully illustrated the seams that are supposed to align. Given this little conundrum, I decided to try out a technique that the pattern didn't explicitly call for, but which seemed appropriate: easestitching. I used the method recommended elsewhere in the Sew Everything Workshop, and put a single stitch with a very long thread about 1/2" from the edge of the "longer" piece (the the skirt body). I then tugged on these threads and used them to evenly distribute the wrinkles in the skirt body until the seams roughly lined up:



 I pinned it here and stitched, and... Voila!

Semi-Victory!!!!
The seams... Sort of lined up! Anyway, they are even, and it looks fine in the finished piece, even if it's not picture perfect. I made the very silly mistake of pinning the wrong side of the waistband to the right side of the body the first time around, and I didn't figure it out until halfway through the seam. Aside pulling that out and starting over, the rest of the project was relatively simple. Putting in the VERY LONG stitches along the top and bottom of the skirt and through the waistline was kind of a pain, because the fabric tended to get a little bunched up and wrinkled, and this got worse the longer I sewed continuously. Because of this, the tail end of the stitch, around the end of one of the waist ties, does look a little wonky. Does anyone know how to prevent or alleviate this problem? Pressing the finished product helped a lot, and it looks pretty flat and tidy in the end.


So, all in all, I'm very proud of this garment. It's the first thing that I chose and made completely for myself, and I wore it to that party Saturday night and got a lot of compliments! I'm still sorting through photos of my outfit from Saturday night, but here's a sneak peek to give you an idea of the finished skirt:

Glamorous!

5 comments:

  1. That skirt is preeeeetty.

    Also, do SM's pajamas feel like the carapaces of a thousand scuttling beetles?

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    1. Well, a thousand scuttling scorpions, yes. Thanks, btw!

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  2. AWESOME. I love the teaser shot at the end! You are so inspiring, and I also love the voice of your writing. So easy to follow and get into your thoughts!

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  3. Excellent work, good sir! I enjoyed seeing your outfit at Laura's party :)

    You did not necessarily need to put in those ease/gathering stitches, but it is a good technique to learn. Those pieces look like they don't line up, it's true - but remember you are trying to create a three-dimensional item out of flat pieces. Those types of seams, when aligned, will produce a curved seam where a curved seam is needed. In this case, it's done so that the facing, which has a different circumference than the skirt, sits flat to the skirt when it is turned inward.

    The way to deal with it is to sort of hand-ease it as you pin. Pin at any notches/guides, and then bend the fabric to meet at the edges in between the notches, not worrying about anything but the edges matching. You can also do this as you sew, if you feel confident - start by matching up the first notch, and just align the edges before they go under the foot. You will get wrinkles--the shaping you want--in one or both pieces. Just be sure those wrinkles don;t extend into the seam.

    You can reduce any wrinkling caused by sewing on the waistband by doing the final seam with a hand stitch. So you sew the waistband on normal, turn it to the inside, fold under the seam allowance, and then attach it to the skirt with an invisible stitch (like a slip-stitch). Since, as I mentioned, the waistband/facing and the skirt aren't the same length precisely, the lighter tension of a hand stitch helps to ease out the difference. This is also similar to how you hem circle skirts.

    Also, I'm curious - what did you decide to do for darts? They are often used to give fit to the hips. Since I am assuming you don't have child-bearing hips, did you adjust them for your own shape?

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